Namche Bazar (3.400 m) – Pangboche (3.930 m)

ZIUA DE ACLIMATIZARE (THE ACCLIMATIZING DAY)

Am plecat de dimineata din Namche pe o racoare relativa, in sensul ca era mai frig, dar nu de nesuportat. Dupa ce am ajuns la soare totul s-a reglat si am inceput sa o luam in sus. Tinta initiala e Tengboche (3.870 m), iar de acolo mai vedem ce putem face… Am gasit un loc de belvedere pentru Everest, am facut poze cu iacii (din belsug pe parcurs) si am coborat.

Everest_001

Inainte de a ajunde la Tengboche mai aveam o urcare de vreo 600 m, ca doar nu era sa urcam usor pana acolo. Un ultim post de politie unde ni s-au verificat actele (in Phunke Tenga), dupa care am urcat pe o poteca foarte prafuita. Am ajuns in Tenbogche, unde am vazut ca mai avem timp si am zis sa i-o dam pana la Somare (4.030 m) – asa ne aclimatizam si putin mai mult.
Coborand din Tenbogche spre Debouche am gasit o pereche de ochelari de soare pe jos, i-am luat si i-am agatat la rucsac. Daca ma-ntalneam cu proprietarul lor pe drum, cu atat mai bine… Se bifa o fapta buna pe ziua respectiva.
Dupa ce-am trecut de Debouche am trecut raul si am inceput urcarea catre Pangboche. Nu mai era destul timp pentru a ajunge la Somare, asa ca am decis sa ne oprim putin mai jos.
Ei bine, la cabana la care am tras l-am gasit si pe proprietarul ochelarilor, care a fost foarte bucuros sa-si revada protectiile solare. Initial am intrebat la un lodge care avea geamurile acoperite, dar cand am auzit cat costa camera am revenit cu intrebarea de alte 2 ori… 2.000 de dolari. „Pardon me. Please rewind…” De doua ori am primit acelasi raspuns, cu completarea ca e „de lux”… Ce de lux la 4.000 m altitudine ? Am si intrebat daca au clienti si mi-a raspuns ca da… Uau. Cea la care am oprit era 2 dolari camera… Mai decent zic.
De mancare rapid, ca eram lihniti – am bagat doar apa si un baton cu fibre toata ziua (9 h de mers si o diferenta de nivel de vreo 500 m in sus si vreo 300 in jos…)
La Pangboche l-am intalnit in sala de mese pe Poul, un danez foarte simpatic pe la vreo 50+ proaspat iesit la pensie si calator de-o viata prin lumea intreaga. A fost instruit in armata la Fortele Aeriene, in ’69 regasindu-se in Alabama (nu, n-a ajuns si la Woodstock, dar era singurul pletos cu barba din fortele armate pana cand a fost rugat frumos sa se tunda – armata daneza devenise mai permisiva in anii aceia, dar cea americana nu, iar modelul lui nu era unul pentru ceilalti soldati).
Am inceput sa povestim despre multe lucruri, el, prin natura muncii, calatorind foarte mult – specialist in calculatoare – trimis in toate partile lumii de catre firma mama. Accepta orice doar pentru a putea mai apoi solicita concediu de 2 luni in care sa nu fie intrebat de nimic, iar sefii ii aprobau pe loc cererea… E pentru a 4a oara in Nepal pe Everest Base Camp Trek, in doua randuri fiind nevoit sa se retraga mai devreme din cauza raului de altitudine sau a unei pneumonii contactate in Lobuche, la o tabara de punctul final al expeditiei. Prima data a fost in ’92 si mi-a spus ca de atunci pana acum pretul camerelor e tot acelasi – 200 de rupii. Doar curentul care a patruns pana atat de sus si preturile la restul alimentelor (care sunt mari, intradevar) diferita.
Am povestit despre pasiunile lui, dintre care enumar doar scufundarile, alpinismul, ciclismul, pescuitul cu harponul din barca lui cu care se mai plimba pe mare, motociclismul si drumetiile cu masina lui special preparata pentru asta. Omul a facut atatea lucruri si a vazut atatea locuri incat n-aveai cum sa nu stai sa-l asculti la ce-ti povesteste… Cum a ajuns si prin Groenlanda, a povestit cum acolo toata lumea e „naturala” in sensul ca nu exista un simt bine determinat al proprietatii acolo. Daca cineva are ceva, imparte cu toti ceilalti. Nu exista sa ai o captura buna de peste si sa iesi apoi a doua zi pentru a pescui din nou. Imparti cu ceilalti vecini, prieteni, familie, iar abia dupa ce se termina stocul te duci sa mai pescuiesti. La fel cu ursul polar… Cine il vede primeste o bucata de carne, cine il impusca primeste alta mai mare, cine il cara alta, cine il taie alta si tot asa… Cel mai amuzant mi s-a parut micul indrumar de circulatie pe care l-a prezentat.
Cum Groenlanda nu are drumuri care sa lege comunitatile (ca nu pot fi numite chiar orase in toata regula) masinile au drumuri foarte scurte de parcurs… Odata a luat un taxi pentru 14 km, iar tipul i-a spus ca asta e cea mai lunga cursa pe care o poate parcurge – de la uzina pana in port. In fine, masinile nu prea au succes, ci saniile trase de caini, iar treaba cea mai tare e ca ele au prioritate. La intersectie, daca se intalnesc masinile cu o sanie trasa de caini vehiculele trebuie sa opreasca si sa astepte trecerea atelajului, pentru ca un caine, evident, nu se opreste la fel de usor. In orice caz, daca vrei sa te plimbi „in teritoriu” se prefera saniile trase cu caini in detrimentul vehiculelor motorizate, pentru ca daca ti se intampla ceva in mijlocul pustietatii ai optiunea de a taia un caine si de a-l da drept hrana celorlalti pentru a ajunge intr-un final la liman. La masina sau snowmobil poti maxim sa te rogi sa ai semnal.
Groenlanda are 55.000 de locuitori, iar Danemarca subventioneaza anual acel teritoriu cu aproximativ un miliard de euro, ceea ce nu e rau daca privesti prin prisma localnicilor. Nici la munca nu prea se spetesc, ei avand optiunea de a raspunde daca sunt intrebati de ce n-au venit ieri la serviciu ca „I didn’t feel like”… Nu e ca si cum il poti concedia, ca dupa aceea nu ai pe cine angaja… In fine, mi s-a parut interesanta descrierea asta pe scurt a acelei suprafete imense de pamant si gheata.
A fost mai peste tot, prin Cambodgia oprind fara sa vrea pe marginea drumului cu bicicleta la o inmormantare pentru a cere de mancare (nestiind initial ce se-ntampla), prin Nepal era chemat de catre agriculotori in casa in perioada recoltei si era omenit drept multumire ca a venit din tara lui pana in tara lor pentru a le-o vizita si tot asa.
Am petrecut vreo 3 ore si ceva vorbind despre orice, de la migratia popoarelor la centrale hidro si nu ne-am fi oprit daca nu era ora stingerii in sala de mese.
Cum era deja ora 19 (destul de inaintata pentru asemenea altitudine) am tras-o pe dreapta ca sa putem urca maine pana in Dinbogche. Drumul era de vreo 4 ore si nu stiam cum o sa ne adaptam cu altitudinea (ajungeam de la 3.930 la 4.410).

TRANSLATION

We left on a chilly morning from Namche. It was colder, but not unbearable. After that the sun rose and we started to go up. The initial target was Tengboche ( 3,870 m ) and from there we’ll see what we can do … We found an Everest view point, I took pictures with yaks ( plentiful along the way ) and went on. Before arriving at Tengboche we had a climb of about 600 m, that just was not easy at all. We encountered a final police station where we were checked for documents in Phunk Tenga, then followed a very dusty trail. We arrived in Tenbogche , where we saw we had time and said to give it a go to Somare ( 4,030 m ) – so we can acclimatize a little more.
On the way from Tenbogche to Debouche I found a pair of sunglasses on the ground, I got hooked’em to my backpack and if I’m meeting with the owner on the road the job will be done – I’ll tick ​​a good deed for the day .
After we passed Debouche there was a river and after that we started climbing to Pangboche. There wasn’t enough time to reach Somare on daylight, so we decided to stop a little lower.
Well, we stopped at a lodge in which I found the owner of the sunglasses, who was very pleased to see them. Initially we asked about room at a lodge that had the windows covered, but when I heard how much the room costs I asked again 2 times … $ 2,000. „Pardon me . Please rewind …” Twice I got the same answer with the addition that it is a „luxury” lodge… What luxury at 4.000 m altitude ? I also asked if they have clients and got the answer said „yes”… Wow . The room were we stopped was $ 2…
We went fat to eat, I was STARVING – I eat only water and a fiber bar all day (9 hour walk and a difference of about 500 m up and down…)
At Pangboche we met in the dining room Mr. Poul Bekker-Hansen, a very nice Danish at about 60 +. Freshly retired, he traveled the World his whole life. He was trained in the Army Air Force, in ’69 he was in Alabama ( no, he didn’t go to Woodstock , but he was the only shaggy beardead  fellow in the Armed Forces until he was asked nicely to trim – the Danish Army became more permissive in those years, but the Americans didn’t and he wasn’t a model for the other soldiers ) .
We began to talk about many things. He, due to his work, traveled a lot – computer specialist – sent by his company. He would accept anything just to be able to then apply for a two months leave. He wasn’t asked anything and immediately took the confirmations… He’s for the fourth time in Nepal and on the Everest Base Camp Trek, on two occasions he was forced to retire early because of altitude sickness or he contacted pneumonia in Lobuche. The first time he was here in ’92 and told me that since then it is still the same price per rooms – 200 rupees. Only electricity that penetrated to the top and the rest of the food prices (very big, really ) differ.
We talked about his passions, of which I only enumerate diving, climbing, cycling, harpoon-fishing, he has a boat to spend more time on the sea, motorcycling and hiking with his car, which is especially prepared for this. The man has done so much and seen so many places that I was bound to stay to listen his stories…

In Greenland everybody is ” natural ” in the sense that there isn’t a well defined sense of ownership there. If someone has something, he shares with everyone. If you have a good catch, then the next day you won’t go out to fish again. You shared with other neighbors, friends, family , and only after the stock ends you go fishing again. The same with a polar bear … Who sees it gets a piece of flesh, who shoots it gets a larger one, whom he carries it another, who cuts it another, and so on… The funniest things were the road rules he presented.

As Greenland has no roads linking the communities (they can’t even be called fledged cities ) cars have very short roads to drive on… Once he took a taxi for 14 km, and the guy said that was the longest distance he can travel – from the factory to the port. Finally, the cars do not have priority, but the dog-sleds. At the intersection, if the cars meet a dogsled vehicle they must stop and wait, because a dog obviously does not stop as easily . In any case , if you want to walk ” in the territory ” is better to use sleds than motorized vehicles because if something happens in the middle of nowhere you have the option to cut a dog and give it as food to others to get through. If you have a car or a snowmobile you can only pray to have signal on your phone.
Greenland has 55,000 inhabitants and Denmark annually subsidizes that territory with approximately one billion euros, which is not bad from the locals’ point of view. They don’t have a problem when it comes to jobs, and they have the option to answer if asked why they did not come to work yesterday as „I didn’t feel like coming to work”… It’s not like you can fire someone, because afterwards who’ll do his job ? I found very interesting this short description of that huge area of land and ice .
He was everywhere turning out in Cambodia on the roadside on bicycle at a funeral demanding food ( initially not knowing what’s going on there), through Nepal he was called by the farmers in their house during the harvest and he was thanked for visiting their country to visit and so on.
I spent about 3 hours talking about everything – from the migration of peoples to hydropower and we wouldn’t have stopped if there was no curfew in the dining room.
As it was already 19.00h ( quite advanced for such altitude ) I went to bed because tomorrow we had to climb to Dinbogche. The route was about 4:00h and we didn’t know how we will adapt to the altitude ( from 3930-4410 ).

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