Pangboche (3.930 m) – Dughla (4.620 m)

Nu ne-am trezit foarte devreme, iar primul sentiment nu a fost unul foarte placut – e mult mai frig seara decat pana acum. Eu n-am reusit (din nou) sa adorm inainte de 01.00 ora locala (nu-mi pot scoate reflexul cu orele de culcare de la noi din tara si nu aveam cum sa ma bag la culcare la mai putin de 22.00 ora Bucurestiului…).
Am pornit tot pe soare, dar cu gheata prin jurul nostru. Raul de la care se alimenteaza satucul ingheata pe margine, iar la robinete deja nu mai curge apa pana nu se-ncalzesc conductele. Doar roata de rugaciuni actionata cu puterea apei se-nvartea, dar asta pentru ca au tras baietii o conducta fix pe paletele rotorului… In fine, e frig, mai frig decat de obicei.

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Am pornit, am filtrat din nou si purificat niste apa dintr-un izvoras de pe marginea drumului si am tot urcat spre Dingboche. Peisajul e din ce in ce mai din alta lume, cu piscurile ascutite fiind acum ca un fel de strajeri fiorosi ai vaii prin care trecem. Golul alpin s-a instalat demult, asa ca putem sustine ca avem vizibilitate buna „pe lung”. Niste tufe din cand in cand, dar altfel ne deplasam pe o mare intindere nesfarsita.

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Ajungem sub Ama Dablam, ne mai tragem putin sufletul alaturi de niste serpasi care ne confirma faptul ca acela e varful, dupa care continuam pana in Dingboche. Cand am ajuns deasupra satucului ne-am uitat unul la altul si am stabilit ca e prea jos… Parca a si aparut prea din senin satul, nu ne asteptam la o asemenea „viteza”.

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Nu simteam nicio durere sau rau de altitudine, iar ziua mai avea inca vreo 4 ore de lumina, asa ca am stabilit sa urcam pana la Dughla, un punct intermediar pana in Lobuche (4.910 m), unde aveam de gand sa zabovim o zi in plus pentru aclimatizare. Ne-a spus de respectivul lodge un cuplu intalnit pe drum pana in Pangboche. Cica acolo a luat un nepalez un credit de la stat si o aprobare speciala pentru a construi respectivul loc (e relativ nou) deoarece e un excelent punct de retragere pentru cei care sufera de rau de altitudine. Cum trebuie sa te retragi cat mai mult daca apar simptomele grave, de la 5.200 la 4.600 e totusi ceva – recomandat e ca pe zi sa urci nu mai mult de 600 m diferenta de nivel.
Am urcat putin pana sa ajungem deasupra satului Dingboche (ne-a luat vreo jumatate de ora cu tot cu filmari si admirat de peisaj), dar de acolo a urmat un platou destul de intins… si de lung. Am tot mers pe el vreo 2 ore (cu pauze ca de obicei ca sa nu ne grabim aiurea), am intalnit o turma de iaci cu un pastor care s-a minunat cat de repede am ajuns aici spunandu-ne totodata ca maine sigur suntem in Gorak Shep.

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Am vrea noi, dar sa vedem daca ne tine… Nici de fortat si stricat totul acum nu prea ne ardea.

In fine, am continuat tot asa pe platou, iar la un moment dat am zarit cele 3 casute (o sala de mese, o cladire cu camere pentru cazare si inca una pentru personalul stabilimentului).

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Am coborat putin, ca eram in susul pantei fata de lodge, ne-am cazat, am bagat o supa de linte cu niste ceai masala, iar apoi in camera la culcare. Deja frigul la 4.600 m nu mai e la fel de bland ca cel de la 4.400, iar focul cu balegar de iac din sala de mese nu era deloc indeajuns… Ne-am bagat in sacii de dormit cu alte 2 straturi de haine pentru a pastra cat mai bine caldura. Paturile de pe pat ne-au ajutat si ele destul de mult, iar atata timp cat stateai sub toate astea nu simteai prea tare frigul. Daca voiai, in schimb, sa scoti nasul afara, te cam pisca. In fine, am dormit relativ bine, doar Alina a avut niste probleme cu somnul.
Ne-am trezit de dimineata si nu voiam sa iesim din sacii de dormit, atat era de frig in camera. Chiar daca geamurile si usa de termopan inspirau o izolatie termica bunicica, peretii si lipsa pragului de la usa faceau aproape inutile eforturile de mai sus. Bine, ce-i drept, nu te batea vantul pe la geam cum ne mai batea la celelalte cabane.

Ne-am trezit, am bagat o portie sanatoasa de slanina cu cascaval si turta dulce de la mama, dupa care ne-am achitat sederea si am pornit catre Lobuche.
La toaleta apa inghetata, ca de obicei. Am reumplut sticla cu napa dintr-un rezervor imens de vreo 3.000 l, dar care continea o apa destul de curata – n-a trebuit s-o filtrez si de impuritati mari…

Urmeaza o urcare de vreo 200 m in 200 m pe harta, deci muuulte pauze.

TRANSLATION

We didn’t got up very early and the first feeling was not a pleasant one – it’s much colder than the night before. I didn’t get to sleep (again ) before 01.00 AM local time ( I can’t change my bedtime to the Nepal hours and I can’t get myself to sleep at less than 22.00h Bucharest time…).
We started our day in the sun, but there was ice around us. The river that feeds the village was frozen on the side and at the taps the water was no longer flowing – not till the pipes warm up. Only a prayer wheel driven by water power sprang, but that’s because the people fixed a pipe to the rotor blades… In conclusion it’s cold, much colder than usual.
I started , I filtered again and purified some water from a roadside well and we went to Dingboche . The landscape is becoming more and more out of this world, with sharp peaks like fierce watchmen of the valley through which we pass. The alpine scenery recently installed, so we can say we have a good visibility. Some bushes from time to time, but otherwise we move on a large infinity.

PICTURE WITH THE BRIDGE AND AMA DABLAM
We got under Ama Dablam Peak, we paused alongside some sherpas and they confirm that that’s the top, then continue up to Dingboche . When we got over the side of the hill we saw the small village, looked at each other and we decided that it’s too low… The village appeared quite suddenly – we didn’t expect such a „speed-climb” .

We didn’t feel any pain or altitude sickness and the day still had about 4 hours of daylight, so we decided to climb up to Dughla – a waypoint until Lobuche ( 4,910 m ), where we were going to linger a day extra for acclimatization. We heard about that lodge from a couple met on the way up to Pangboche. They said the owner there took a loan from the state and a special permit to build that place ( it’s relatively new) because it is an excellent retreat for those suffering from altitude sickness. You should retire as much as possible if serious symptoms appear, and from 5200-4600 m is still something – it’s recommended that in a day you don’t climb more than 600 m in altitude.
We climbed a while to get over the village Dingboche (it took us about half an hour with all the shooting and enjoying the scenery ), but after that followed a stretched plateau… and long. We’ve walked on it for about 2 hours (with breaks as often as possible), we met a herd of yaks with a pastor who was impressed when we told him where we’re coming from and told us also that we can reach tomorrow Gorak Shep.

PICTURE WITH THE YACKS

We’d wish that, but we’ll see… We don’t want to force it at this point.

We continued on, and at one point we saw 3 small houses (a dining room , a building with rooms and another one for the staff establishment).

PICTURE WITH DUGHLA AND THE PASS ABOVE

We went down a little, we checked-in, got a lentil soup with some masala tea and then to the bed room. It’s already cold at 4,600 m, not as bland as at 4400 , and the yak dung fire in the dining room was not enough … We got into our sleeping bags with other 2 layers of clothes to keep us warm as well. The blankets helped us a lot, and as long as you were standing underneath it all you didn’t feel too cold. If you wanted to pull the nose off, it would pinch a little. Anyway, I slept relatively – well only Alina had some trouble sleeping.
We woke up this morning and did not want to get out of our sleeping bags, it was that cold in the room. Even if the windows and door inspired a pretty good insulation, the walls and the absence of a door threshold makes  almost useless the efforts above.

We got up, I prepared a serving of bacon, swiss-cheese and gingerbread from my mother, after that we paid for the accomodation and started the climb to Lobuche.

The water from the pipes was frozen as usual. I refilled the bottle with water from a huge reservoir of about 3,000 liters, but it was pretty clean – I didn’t had to filter out big impurities…

We had a climb of about 200 m in 200 m on the map, so a looooot of breaks…

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