Dughla – Gorak Shep (5.190 m) – EBC (5.360 m) – Kala Patthar (5.450 m) – Dughla (TRANSLATED@the end)

Telul de azi era Lobuche (4.190m) cu amendamentul ca daca ne simteam in stare puteam forta pana la Gorak Shep. Daca ne apuca ceva puteam oricand cobori… Nu aveam vale si deal, ci doar urcare, deci la intoarcere o coborare sustinuta in caz ca era nevoie.
Din prima, dupa ce am iesit de la Dughla, aveam de infruntat o urcare de vreo 200 m altitudine, iar cum noi nu ne-am aclimatizat la 4.400 m trebuia s-o luam incet, altfel riscam sa ne activam raul de altitudine.

EBC_001

Cu pauze la fiecare 200 de pasi si tras de suflet corespunzator am reusit sa urcam acea prima parte mai pieptisa.
Sus am dat de monumentele funerare ale serpasilor si ale altor expeditii care au incercat sa urce pe Everest in trecut. Un anume monument mi-a atras atentie… Uau !

EBC_002
Dupa acele monumente a urmat o vale destul de lunga pe care am regasit zapada. Nu pe poteca, ce-i drept, ci pe langa.

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Multa lume care cobora, dar si pe urcare am fost intrecuti de multi oameni. Ei aveau un ritm mai alert si cred ca aveau in plan doar Lobuche.

Noi ne-am vazut de ritmul nostru si nu ne-am grabit, am luat toate pauzele pe care am putut sa le luam, iar intr-un final am ajuns la Lobuche. Acolo am oprit pentru a bea un ceai, am vazut ca suntem in stare, asa ca am urcat si mai sus. Regula se mentinea – pauzele lungi si dese…
Si am urcat prin tinutul gheturilor pana ne-am saturat – la un moment dat ne si intrebam daca mai e mult… Pe harta parea mult mai putin, dar si respiratia noastra nu era una normala. O sa auziti pe filmulet cum gafaiam, dar mai important era faptul ca nu ne durea capul.

EBC_004
Am ajuns la asezare, ne-am cazat, dupa care am coborat in sala de mese, unde am bagat la mat si ne-am incalzit la soba din mijlocul ei. Destul de multa lume, dar ne-am gasit si noi loc la o masa cu 2 surori gemene australience cu care ne-am mai intalnit pe parcurs.
Dupa toate astea, somn, ca trebuie sa ne odihnim. Maine e-n plan sa-i dam fuga la vale cat putem de mult.
Traseul nostru din data de 3 decembrie n-a inceput prea devreme (cum au facut majoritatea celor cazati in cabana cu noi), dar asta nu din cauza ca nu ne-am trezit, dimpotriva, as putea spune ca nici macar n-am dormit, ci din cauza frigului. Atat era de frig incat nu-ti venea sa-ti arati nasul inainte de rasaritul soarelui.

In plus, Alina a avut de suportat o durere de stomac care n-a lasat-o sa doarma – nu ca si cum tusea tipei din camera de langa a incetat vreodata pe parcursul noptii…
Eu unul nu ma resimteam din cauza altitudinii desi o luasem cam repejor in ultimele zile, dar cred (si sper sa fie asa) ca am un organism care dupa ce a inteles ca va fi chinuit se adapteaza rapid. Nu vreau sa le stirbesc din merite nici prietenilor de la Training Partners cu care am bagat 2 saptamani de antrenamente intense inainte sa vin in Nepal – au facut treaba buna Mihai si Radu…
In Namche am avut acele dureri de cap usurele in ziua de aclimatizare, iar de atunci cred ca organismul a intrat in modul „altitudine”. Desi in mai toate indicatiile scrie ca dupa 600 m urcati trebuie sa stai o zi sa faci aclimatizare, noi incercam sa urcam pana in 600 pe zi si sa ne „aclimatizam” pe timp de noapte la somn. Se pare ca a functionat.
Revenind la ziua Z, cea cu incununarea succesului, am inceput tarziu ascensiunea, pe la 8.00… Prima grija a fost sa ne luam apa, iar un nepalez tinerel a fost destul de dragut incat sa ne conduca la locul de unde faceau si ei realimentarea – la copca lacului inghetat din spatele pensiunilor. Am umplut o sticla, am pus pastila de purificare, dupa care am inceput sa urcam. Dupa cum am zis si inainte, Alina avea ceva de discutat cu stomacul si nu prea ii ardea de urcare, dar strangea din dinti si spunea „daca tot am ajuns pana aici, nu ma opresc eu…” Exista si varianta in care mai stam o zi pana se drege, dar nici ea nu-si mai dorea o noapte friguroasa la 5.190 m altitudine. Cu toata izolatia de la geamuri si cu plapuma trasa peste sacul de dormit, daca te gandeai sa scoti mainile din sac imediat iti aduceai aminte sa le bagi inapoi.

EBC_005
Si am tot mers printr-un peisaj parca din alta lume, pe albia ghetarului, pana cand la un moment dat am zarit si varful Everest de dupa Nuptse.

EBC_006

Ciudat, ca sa nu zic ilogic, dar din tabara de baza nu ai cum sa vezi varful, ci doar in drum catre ea… In fine, l-am vazut, l-am fotografiat, am intalnit si un soricel de Everest foarte prietenos care a stat la pozat si filmat, dupa care am ajuns pe suprafata ghetarului, unde se afla pilonul care indica tabara de baza.

Am facut poze cat a putut, dar nu prea mult, pentru ca frigul (mai precis vantul) ne-a gonit rapid.

EBC_007
Inapoi spre Gorak Shep si spre Kala Patthar, celebrul deal de langa asezare de unde ai un punct de belvedere mult mai bun decat la EBC. Faptul ca dealul se ridica pana la altitudinea de 5.550 m te ajuta sa arunci cu privirea peste crestele din fata lui.

EBC_008
Am urcat si pe el pana la vreo 100 m sub punctul de maxim – vantul batea enervant de tare si vedeam destul de bine si de acolo, asa ca am zis sa nu mai pierdem inca o jumatate de ora pe urcare. In plus, Alina chiar nu avea chef de chinuiala, asa ca am zis better safe than sorry si am luat-o repejor la vale.
Am platit cabana – o sa mentionez in fuga, desi nu-mi place, ca proprietarul era un om atat de acrit/sictirit incat chiar mi-a pasat de parerea lui vreo 3 secunde. Au trecut cele 3 secunde, dupa care mi-am vazut mai departe de drum.
Stiam incotro mergem, stiam ce trebuie sa intalnim, dar ceea ce nu stiam era pana unde putem ajunge cu lumina soarelui aliata. Am zis „hai pana la Dughla”… Era ceva realizabil. Initial ne gadiseram la Periche (4.230 m), dar nu aveam destula lumina, iar Alina chiar nu mai avea chef de nimic. Ne-am oprit in acelasi loc in care am tras cu doua seri inainte, am bagat ceva de mancare rapid, dupa care la culcare. E mai multa lume decat data trecuta, deci s-ar putea sa fie mai mult zgomot pe culoar. Totusi, nu ca tusea din seara trecuta… Chiar nu stiu ce mai cauta persoana respectiva acolo – eu as fi coborat-o imediat. Am uitat sa spun ca tipa facea parte dintr-un grup de studenti aflati la plimbare… Risky business in grup atat de mare.
Gata, culcarea, ca maine coboram cat putem sub 4.000 m. Mai avem vreo 7 zile pana in Kathmandu.

EBC_010

TRANSLATION

The goal for today was Lobuche ( 4.190m ) with the amendment that if we felt able to go to Gorak Shep we could force it. We could always go down fast… There was just the climb, so could descend back in case it was needed.
First thing after getting out of the Dughla we faced a climb of about 200 m altitude, and as we didn’t acclimatized at 4,400 m we were supposed to take it slow, otherwise we risk activating the altitude sickness .
With breaks at every 200 steps we managed to climb the steep terrain.
We found there the tombstones of sherpas and other expeditions that attempted to climb Everest in the past.

After those monuments followed a valley in which we found the snow. Not on the path that ‘s right, but besides .

Many people coming down, but also upwards we were overwhelmed by many. They had a faster pace and I think they only had plans for Lobuche .

We have seen our pace and we did not hurry, taken all the breaks we could get, and finally we arrived at Lobuche . There we stopped to drink some tea, saw that it’s ok, so we climbed higher. The rule was maintained – long and frequent pauses…
And we went through the land of ice until we were sick of it… On the map seemed much less, and our breathing was not normal. You’ll hear in the movie how hard it was, but more important was that we didn’t had a headache.
We arrived at the place, and after that we descended into the dining room where we got a little bit more warm with the help of a manure-alimented stove. Quite a lot of people, but we found a place on a table with two Aussie twin sisters that we met along the way.
After that we went sleep, because we should rest. Tomorrow we want to go up, and after that run downhill as fast as we can.
Our route on December 3rd didn’t start too early (unlike most of those staying in the cottage with us), but this is not because we did not woke up. We could say that we didn’t even slept. The cold was to blame. It was so cold that you could not show your nose before sunrise.

In addition, Alina had suffered a stomach ache that didn’t let her sleep – not like the girl coughing in next room – she never stopped during the night …
I didn’t feel so bad because of the altitude even though we went a bit quick in the recent days, but I think ( and hope so ) that I have a body who understands that he shall be tormented and adapts quickly. I don’t want either to neglect the merits of my friends from Training Partners that did with me two weeks of intense training before coming to Nepal – Mihai and Radu have done a good job…
In Namche I had those minor headaches in the acclimatization day and since then I think the body just programmed itself afterwards. Although  after 600 m of climb you must stay one day to do acclimatization we tried to climb up to 600 per day and get ” acclimatized ” during the night . Apparently it worked .
Returning to Z day, the one with the crowning success, we began the ascent later, at 08.00… The first concern was to get our water, and a Nepalese kid was nice enough to lead us to the place where they „refuel” – a frozen ice lake situated behind hostels. I filled a bottle, put in a pill for purification and after that we started climbing. As I said before, Alina had something to discuss with them burning stomach, but she clenched her jaw and said ” since we’re up here, do not stop me…” There was the option to stay one more day until we stabilize, but she no longer wanted a cold night at 5,190 m altitude . With all the insulation and blanket over the sleeping bag, if you’re thinking to remove your hands from the bag immediately you will remember to put them back in.
We went through a landscape like from another world (the glacier bed) until at one point I saw Everest behind Nuptse.

Strangely , not to mention illogical , but from the Base Camp you can not see the top, but only on the way to it… Finally, I saw , I photographed , I met a very friendly Everest-mouse that was posed, then got on the surface of the glacier where the pillar was indicating the Base Camp .
I took pictures, but not too many, because the cold (wind ) was strong.
Back to Gorak Shep and Kala Patthar, the famous hill near the place, where you have a lookout point much better than from the EBC. The hill rises to an altitude of 5,550 m helps you to see over the ridges.
We climbed on it to about 100 m below the peak – the wind was blowing hard and annoying, so we said not to lose another half hour to climb it. In addition, Alina just did not feel the torment, so better safe than sorry I said and we took this quick downhill.
I paid at the cottage – a mention in the run, although I do, that the owner was a man so grumpy / pissed that I really cared about his opinion about 3 seconds. 3 seconds have passed after that and I went on my way.
I knew where to go , I knew what to meet , but what I did not know was how far we can get sunlight. I said, ” Come up to Dughla ” … It was doable. Initially we thought Periche ( 4,230 m), but it was not enough daylight. We stopped in the same place where we stayed two nights before, we got some food quickly and then to bed.
Okay, in bed now, and tomorrow we descend below 4,000 m. We still have a 7 ​​days up till Kathmandu.

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