Dughla – Phunke Tenga (3.250 m) – Phakding (aprox. 2.700 m) – Tanga Ra (aprox 2.800 m) (TRANSLATED@the end)

La coborare n-o sa mai fiu atat de descriptiv pentru simplul fapt ca nu prea e ce sa descrii. Pozele, ce-i drept, cand o sa le pot incarca, poate o sa mai completeze ceva, dar altfel nimic deosebit. Alina ce a tras de ea sa poata cobori – durerea aia de stomac n-a lasat-o pana n-am ajuns sub 3.500 m, dar altfel am mers cat am putut de mult in fiecare zi.

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Am oprit pe seara la Punke Tenga (pe fundul unei vai) pentru ca era deja spre inserat, eram lihniti, iar pana in Namche mai aveam de urcat vreo 300 m.. Nu, lasati, merge si asa. Am oprit la Cozy Lodge, stabilimentul unui nepalez foarte de treaba care ne-a povestit si cum lucreaza el prin Norvegia 5 luni pe an, iar aici am mancat bine, dupa care ne-am bagat la culcare cu raul rasunand la geam.
A doua zi ne-a tepuit cu 150 de rupii la micul dejun (si ne-am dat seama prea tarziu), dar asa sa-i rasplateasca si lui kharma…

Am plecat din Phunke Tenga dupa ce am luat micul-dejun si am inceput urcarea catre Namche Bazar – de la 3.250 m la 3.440 m… Acolo aveam de gand sa postez ce-am facut zilele trecute, cat n-am avut conexiune, si sa mai aduc astfel la zi informatiile. Desigur, nu ma gandeam ca pot posta ceva pe blog – conexiunea e prea lenta si prea scumpa pentru a merita graba, asa ca astept pana in Kathmandu sau chiar Chitwan pentru a atasa si poze la articole.
Am urcat destul de lent, poate si din cauza oboselii acumulate din ziua precedenta, dupa care am pierdut o jumatate de ora verificand mailul si facebookul. Nu stiu de ce, dar am visat intr-una din zile ca a fost cutremur la noi… Se pare ca n-a fost.

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De acolo am continuat coborarea pe panta care incepe imediat dupa ce treci de postul de politie de la iesirea din Namche. Tot mergand cu grija la genunchi, am ratat intersectia care dadea spre podul nou (cel mai inalt) si am continuat pe drumul „vechi” catre podul de jos. Am vazut eu la un moment dat ca am luat-o prea jos si i-am facut semn unui „manator de iaci” intrebandu-l italieneste daca e bine s-o iau si pe aici. Mi-a incuviintat, asa ca am continuat. Nu au trecut 2 minute de la respectiva „convorbire” ca pe poteca au aparut niste creaturi tropaitoare destul de sprintene. N-am vazut din prima ce anume, ca au sarit de prin boschetii de pe margine, dar dupa cateva secunde m-am lamurit – rupicapra rupicapra de Nepal… Mai paroase decat la noi, desigur, dar cam la aceeasi dimensiune.
Mi-a placut ca n-au fost foarte sperioase si au stat destul de mult la fotografiat/filmat. Bineinteles, cum ne apropiam putin mai mult de ele se indepartau, dar am reusit totusi cateva cadre dragute.

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Am trecut apoi pe podul „vechi” si am continuat coborarea. Nimic important dupa aceea, dar ideea e ca n-am reusit sa parcurgem tot traseul pe care ni l-am propus – voiam sa trecem de Lukla – dar e bine si asa. Recuperam zilele urmatoare.
Gata, ca oboseala se acumuleaza… Am terminat cina, am asistat la o discutie a unui conducator de grup (ghid) in care i-a sfatuit pe englezii „condusi” sa dea bacsis porterilor, sa-i invite la cina si sa le lase toate lucrurile de care nu mai au nevoie – de la sosete murdare la bete de trekking, indiferent… Interesant, dar nu stiu cum sa consider treaba asta – prea mult sau prea pe fata. In fine, nu am avut niciodata nevoie de ghid si sper sa nu am vreodata (daca nu mi se baga de catre guvernul local pe gat), dar pentru cei care vor sa fie siguri de traseu trebuie sa intre-n hora si sa joace.

Am plecat de dimineata din Phakding si bine am facut ca am oprit la localul de pe colt unde am vazut multa lumina si straini inauntru (in seara precedenta) – daca o continuam pe drum tot inainte o dadeam in balarii. Abia cand am plecat de dimineata si am avut lumina ne-am dat seama ca aici facuseram la dreapta cand am urcat spre Namche.
Am trecut podetul, dupa care am continuat pe drum pana in Chepplung, unde am facut dreapta pentru a evita Lukla. Ideea era sa coboram pana in Surke, dupa care sa mergem (urcat si coborat) cat putem. Am mers noi pe dealuri pe acolo, am vazut mai multi nepalezi „putin luati” ca de obicei, iar eu am fost intrebat pentru a 50a oara daca Alina nu e sotia mea. Sincer m-am cam saturat sa explic, asa ca le spun „no” si ii astept pe ei sa spuna ca e sora mea. Daca nu spun ei, le spun eu ca e o prietena care a vrut sa vina si ea pe meleagurile astea indepartate. Cam ciudat pentru ei sa mergi asa si mai ales sa nu fi insurat deja pana la 29 de ani – ei pe la 25 sunt deja luati, altfel sunt ciudatii satului. Am aflat asta de la diferitii amici facuti pe parcurs.

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Am mers pana a cazut intunericul, dupa care am ajuns pe o poteca foarte noroioasa… Si pe harta scria „slippery trail”, dar asta nu era doar slippery, ci de-a dreptul „muddy”. Am mers asa vreo ora pana cand am ajuns la satucul Tanga Ra, undeva sus pe deal. Noi il vazuseram de pe dealul vecin, dar n-am crezut ca va dura chiar atat pana ajungem la el. Acolo nu era curent deloc, asa ca am deranjat niste localnici care stateau la un foc de seara in cocioaba lor ca sa-i intrebam unde gasim un lodge. O fetita mai fasneata ne-a spus ca la vreo 5 minute de mers e „Asa ca n-am” (Sonam) Lodge. Am mai deranjat dupa vreo 3 minute de mers pe cineva sa intreb daca nu e acela lodgeul. Nu, mai erau vreo 15 minute de la ei. In fine, am constientizat ca exista lodgeul respectiv – deja erau 2 persoane diferite care stiau de existenta lui (pe harta nu e notat nimic, dar si harta e din 2010…).
Coborand noi usurel, in spatele nostru au rasarit 3 porteri nepalezi dintre care unul, Radza, mai vorbaret. Ne-am intretinut vreo 10 minute pe drum vorbind despre „the usual” ca din ce tara venim, cati ani avem, de unde venim si unde ne ducem… Am ajuns la un moment dat in dreptul unei cocioabe pe partea dreapta, iar Radza ne-a spus ca acela e locul in care dorm serpasii. Pe partea stanga era lodgeul propriu-zis, si el lipsit de curent.
Am batut la usa, am intrebat cat face (200 de rupii), dupa care am decis sa cinam in stil local cu dal bhat. Foarte bun si mult mai ieftin decat in susul Luklei, unde pentru o portie trebuia sa platesti cel putin 600. Aici deja gaseam la 250, deci mult mai decent.
Camera noastra era la etaj, dar izolatia era aproximativ inexistenta – peretele catre cealalta camera era plin de gauri, atat intre scanduri cat si in nodurile scandurilor. A doua zi am aflat ca in camera de langa era cazat un neamt cu care am avut o conversatie destul de „inganduratoare”.
Coborand noi la micul dejun am comandat un lapte de iac si ceva omleta sau chapatti (Alina), iar acolo am vorbit cu tipul mai pe larg, el dandu-ne un verdict ingrijorator care va trebui verificat pe siteurile meteo cand ajungem in Kathmandu. In Dharamsala a inceput iarna, asa ca foarte probabil acum e zapada pe acolo. Asta ne-a cam dararmat din sperante si planuri… Dar cum orice situatie isi are cu siguranta si o iesire mi-a venit o alta idee – hai in Goa ! 
Daca astrele se aranjeaza in asemenea fel, dupa Agra, in loc s-o luam spre nord o luam spre plajele insorite de pe paralela de vreo 15 grade (cred..). Mai trebuie cercetata situatia, dar este o varianta…

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TRANSLATION

For the descent I will not be so descriptive simply because you don’t have really too much to describe. The pictures, that’s right, when I’ll upload them, maybe will complete something, but otherwise nothing special . Alina gave her best on going down – the stomach pain never left her until we came under 3,500 m – but otherwise we went much as I could every day. We stopped for the night at Punk Tenga (at the bottom of a valley ) because it was already too dark, I was STARVING , and until Namche we had to climb about 300 m.

We stopped at the Cozy Lodge, an establishment of a very nice Nepalese man who told us how he works in Norway 5 months a year. Here we ate well, then we went to bed with the river echoing the window.
The next day he robbed us for 150 rupees at breakfast ( and we realized too late), but let his Kharma reward him in the same way…

From Tenga Phunk we left after breakfast and started climbing to Namche Bazar – from 3,250 m to 3,440 m.. There I was going to post what I did the other day as I had an internet connection, and thus some more up to date information. The connection is too slow for blog posting and too expensive to hurry, so wait I’ll until Kathmandu or Chitwan to attach pictures and articles.
We went pretty slow maybe because of the accumulated fatigue from the previous day (we lost half an hour checking email and Facebook). Don’t know why, but I dreamed in of one previous days that there waqs an earthquake back home… It looks like it wasn’t the case.
From there we continued descending the slope that starts right after you pass the police station from Namche. We were still going to watch it for our knees, I missed the junction that goes to the new bridge ( the highest ) and continued on the old trek to the bridge below. I realized that we went too low and I waved at a „yak herded” in Italian wondering if it ‘s okay to go by here. He nodded yes, so I continued. 2 minutes after that „talk” on the path appeared some agile creatures prancing. I didn’t saw what it was, they have jumped from the bushes on the edge, but after a few seconds I cleared – Rupicapra Rupicapra from Nepal… More hair than on our mountain goats, of course, but about the same size.
I liked that they weren’t really scared and stayed for photos/movies. Of course, as we approached they ran, but I still managed some nice shots.
We then passed on the bridge „old” and continued the descent. Nothing much after that, but the point is that we didn’t manage to go all the way to Lukla – but it’s good. We will recover in the following days.
That fatigue accumulates… I finished dinner , I attended a speech from a group leader (guide ) which advised his British employers to give tips to the porters, to invite them to dinner tomorrow evening and leave them all the things they do not need anymore – from dirty socks to trekking poles, whatever… Interesting, but I don’t know how to consider this – too much or too much in your face. I never needed a guide and I hope this never happens (unless I’m forced by the local government) , but for those who want to be sure of the route go for it.

We left in the morning from Phakding and well we did stopping at the place on the corner where we saw lots of light and foreigners inside (the night before) – if we continue straight on the road we would have went far from the normal trail. Only when we left this morning and had the light we realized that there he turned right when we went to Namche .
We crossed the bridge and continued on the trail till Chepplung, where we turned right to avoid Lukla. The idea was to descend until Surke, then go ( up and down ) as much as we could. We went on the hills, we saw many Nepalese „a little more happy” than usual, and I was asked for a 50th time if Alina ‘s not my wife. Honestly I’m tired to explain, so I say „no” and I expect them to say she’s my sister . If they don’t say this, I tell them that she’s a friend who wanted to come to this distant land . Kind of weird for them to go so and especially not being already married at 29 – at 25 they’re are already taken, or else they are considered the village freaks. I learned this from the different friends made ​​along the way.
We walked till darkness fell, then got to a very muddy trail… On the map said „slippery trail”, but this was not just slippery, but downright „muddy”. We went on like this for about an hour until we reached the village of Tang Ra somewhere up on the hill. There was no power at all, so I annoyed some locals who were sitting in a shack fire to ask them where we could find a lodge. A girl told us that at about 5 minute ‘s Sonam Lodge. I bothered after about 3 minutes someone else to ask if that’s the lodge. No, there were still about 15 minutes till there.

Whilst descending slowly, behind us sprang three Nepalese porters. One of them, Radza, was more talkative. We wenr about 10 minutes on the road talking about ” the usual” as what country we come from, how old are we , where we come from today and where we’re going… We got to a point where there was a shack on the right and Radza told us that that is where the Sherpas sleep. On the left was the lodge itself, but it also lacked power .
I knocked on the door , I asked how much is the room (200 rupees ), after which we decided to have dinner with dal bhat in local style. Very good and much cheaper than beyond Lukla, where for a meal you must pay at least 600. Here already was 250, so much more decent .
Our room was upstairs , but the insulation was almost nonexistent – the wall to the other room was full of holes and the windows so and so. The next day I learned that in the next room stood a German with whom I had a quite revealing conversation.
We got down for breakfast and I ordered a yak milk and some scrambled eggs, and there I talked to the guy more widely. He gave us a disturbing verdict that will be checked when we arrive in Kathmandu in the weather sites. In Dharamsala winter began, so now it’s probably snowing there. That tore down our hopes and plans… But any situation has its solution and  another idea popped out – let’sgo to Goa !
If all’s well, after Agra we’ll go to the beach. We’ll have to investigate the situation, but it is an option…

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